Style icons - Alfred Comte d’Orsay - the last of the dandies.

It was into these tumultuous times that Alfred came into the world and he grew up in the Paris of the First Empire, beautiful and glamorous. All of this came to an abrupt end with Napoleon’s catastrophic campaign in Russia, causing his final downfall, permanent exile and the restoration of King Louis who had been residing in England. By a curious coincidence a certain London banker, named Thomas Skottowe, greatly helped King Louis during this time, and on his return to Paris conferred, on Thomas, the title of Baron. While at heart Alfred d’Orsay remained a Bonpartist in 1821 he enlisted as a lieutenant in the bodyguards of the restored Bourbon King Louis XVIII.

An amateur artist, sculpture and a man of fashion he pioneered a new, exuberant, style of dressing and living. Modern but not dull he dressed and lived as he wished, experimenting with colours and textures often creating flamboyant effects. He influenced both his, and future, generations setting the foundations of what is still called the continental style. As Alice Cicolini perfectly explained, “Unlike Brummell, d’Orsay’s pursuit of dandyism was a search for personal fulfillment rather than social power. Already powerful by token of birth, d’Orsay’s legacy was of dandyism as fashion plate, and he became known as the original ‘butterfly dandy.’ There was also none of Brummell’s austerity; the French imagination had already mixed dandyism with English romanticism, as evidenced by d’Orsay’s more sensual, lavish, and luxurious approach to dress”.

Alfred travelled to London early in his military career as part of Louis XVIII’s guard for the extravagant coronation of George IV in 1821. Regency London was a vibrant, almost decadent city, and young Alfred would have felt very much in his element. During his stay he met the extremely wealthy Lord and Lady Blessington, and their friendship quickly blossomed into something more intimate with both the Count and Countess falling for d’Orsay’s charm. Contemporaries commented on the young man’s effeminate behavior but evidence for a relationship with either of the Blessingtons remains elusive. The following year the couple visited d’Orsay while he was stationed at Valence and invited him to accompany their party on a tour of Italy. Lord Blessington was an avid art collector, and it seems that the young Alfred was also caught in the collector’s net. He resigned his commission and they all set of to Italy. In the spring of 1823 Alfred arrived in Genova where he met the poet Byron who was also staying in the Ligurian capital. Clearly Alfred made an impression on the bohemian Byron, somewhat of a dandy himself, whose diary from this period mentions him numerous times. He even sketched Byron proving Alfred to be a talented portraitist. 

His elaborate appearance made a huge impact on the men of his era and, unlike the prevailing austere style of the time, d’Orsay adored colour and flounce. He wore his coats thrown back to reveal, as was the fashion in the 1830s and 40s, multiple layers of luxurious waistcoats upon which multiple gold chains were looped and the whole ensemble was topped off with an elegant silk cravat. He was tall, handsome and made an impression wherever he went. He wore his trousers tight and his fragrance, usually jasmine, announced his presence long before his actual arrival. In a time when the word did not yet exist he was undoubtedly a shopaholic and got through six pairs of gloves a day! A celebrity par excellence his influence on the fashion of the 1830s and 1840s was far-reaching and lasting.

Alfred continued to travel through Italy with the Blessington’s, even being married for a short time to Lord Blessington’s daughter. This all ended with the death of the count and the widowed countess returned with Alfred to London in 1829. For a time they lived at Seamore Place then, in 1836 they set up residence at Gore House near Kensington Palace. Conveniently located, and with elegant interiors by Robert Adam, it was the perfect  home to entertain the fashionable, literary and artistic elite of London society. The lively, and still moderately wealthy, Lady Blessington together with the charismatic, artistic and witty d’Orsay created a brilliant salon. 

Gore House became a gathering place for the cream of London society, the best of the literary, political, social and artistic circles. The couple received Thomas Moore, Benjamin Disraeli ( later prime minister), Edward Bulwer-Lytton, Dickens, Thackeray, Louis Blanc, Alfred de Vigny, and Louis Napoleon Bonaparte. D’Orsay was universally liked as, unlike Beau Brummell, his wit and charm were accompanied by a benevolent character. He disdained convention, had the elegance of an aesthete and worshiped the cult of the self. Unlike Brummell he didn’t bully but charmed unreservedly, "He pleased everyone so naturally and so passionately that men even wore his medallion." 

His artistic skill, both in painting and sculpture, can be seen in the numerous portraits and statues of his friends that he produced while at Gore House. While he may have lacked the high level of finish popular at that time his natural talent in capturing a truthful likeness cannot be questioned.

Dandies come in different sorts, from those who play at it while young, those who assume it for effect, to those live it in every aspect of their lives. For the complete dandy, of which there are very few, it’s not just about clothes but: lifestyle, manners, wit, art, social accomplishments, luxurious amusements, even the quality of the bed linen. Alfred was one of these rare creatures. His persona came across as charming and effortless but don’t be fooled. According to Barbey d'Aurevilly, d'Orsay was not a dandy, but a lion: "He is a nature infinitely more complex, more ample, and more human than that English thing.” He remained the exotic, continental, creature, one of the first examples of a new phenomenon of mid 19th century urban life the ‘Flaneur’.

Unencumbered by any obligation or sense of urgency, he spent his time with enjoying and savoring the multiple flavors of his city.

As you can imagine the life of a dandy is an expensive one and by 1849 Lady Blessington and d’Orsay had consumed the entire family fortune. Being declared bankrupt d’Orsay left for France to avoid his creditors, where he was joined by Lady Blessington. Sadly she died soon after arriving and Alfred scratched a living painting portraits until in 1852 he was appointed, by his old friend Louis Napoleon, as head of the Beaux-Art School. Unfortunately this came late as he, too, passed away just a few days later and was buried together with Lady Blessington in the Pyramid tomb he had designed for her in Chambourcy.

He was a legend in his time and for many decades after. Disraeli and Dickens were just two of the hundreds of loud young men who pored over the count's elaborate appearance in the hope of reproducing some of that impact on a budget. Alfred championed the individual and gently, but powerfully, subverted the idea of conformity.

From him we can learn how to add individual flair by adding  some flamboyant accessories to an otherwise restrained and conservative outfit to make an impact. He proved that timeless fashion doesn’t have to be boring and insipid, on the contrary, it can be creative and uplifting.