Great tailoring is a combination of accomplished cutting
and beautiful sewing. These skills can only be learnt from
passionate exponents and Simon was fortunate in being
able to learn from some very generous craftsmen.
From Mrs. Ellis, his needlework teacher,
to Eddie Fosbrook, master tailor, then Sig. Stucci,
one of Milan’s most famous tailoring cutters,
and finally Tom Slatter, back on Savile Row,
Simon has indeed been lucky
with the people who taught him his trade.
His cutting technique is based,
like most of London’s best bespoke tailors,
on the F.R. Morris Tailor and Cutter system.
This was recently revised, in the 1940’s!
Although figures and styles changed this is still
the best basis for cutting bespoke patterns.
The construction, canvassing and sewing is also based
upon the London tradition.
In Italy Simon learned the lighter construction
for summer weights and the finer style of finishing
preferred on the continent.
After a new customer has been measured and style details discussed the first pattern is drafted.
A fit up is prepared and tried,
then all necessary modifications are applied to the paper pattern.
Following this a first baste with the customers chosen fabric is prepared.
The trouser by the trouser maker, the coat by the coat maker.
This is fitted again, modifications noted and the pattern again adjusted.
The second, or pocket baste, is then prepared.
The lower and inside pockets are made and linings basted in.
Trousers also have their pockets made and long seams machined.
If, at the final fitting all is well the trouser is finished:
zip or button fly, belt loops or side adjusters,
and then passed to the finisher for buttonholing, felling the waistband etc.
The coat is stripped back and trimmed. The lapels are padded, edge tape applied, outer breast pocket
made and then the facings are attached and set; the fronts are completed. The body is finished with the
back and it’s lining, followed by the shoulders, collar and sleeves. All these processes are done by the
senior tailor and his assistant working together. This ensures all the carefully calculated shape
modifications are correctly applied. Collar and sleeve setting is done only by the senior tailor.
The completed jacket then goes to the hand finisher for lining felling, prick stitching, buttonholing and
collar finishing. Pressing follows, up to two hours of careful work and finally the buttons can be
Five highly skilled craftspeople work more than eighty hours on each suit. All the production is carried
out in house with machines being used only for the main seams.
When one is judging a suit the three fundamental things to
look for are: harmony of shape and styling, a flattering cut
and silhouette and a correct balance and proportion. Then
comes the correct choice of cloth, appropriate trim and of
course, expert construction and finishing. Only true bespoke
tailoring can give this amount of attention to all aspects of
making a suit. The drape of the sleeve, the line of the
shoulder and how the collar and lapel roll to just above the
top button without a hint of tension.
You cannot even see most of the work, it is hidden inside.
But it is the hours of patient hand stitching, shaping and
pressing that sets bespoke tailoring apart. Only when you
slip on a bespoke jacket can you fully appreciate the
difference as it falls effortlessly into place and becomes part
Shirts were long considered underwear, and not
much on show. This tradition, like many others, was
relaxed during the 1920’s, when shirts begin to take
a more important and colourful place in a
gentleman’s wardrobe. Daisy Buchanan, the
heroine in F. Scott Fitzgerald’s classic "The Great
Gatsby" was apparently moved to tears by the
beauty of Gatsby’s shirts.
“Shirts with stripes and scrolls and plaids in coral
and apple green and orange and faint orange with
monograms of Indian blue.”
In this colourful tradition we are pleased to
collaborate with Vienna’s favourite shirt maker,
Gino Venturini - Hemden Hertzog. Now being run
by the second generation of the Venturini family
they offer their full bespoke shirt service in
Budapest through our shop.
Each customer is measured and all styling details
discussed. Collar and cuff shapes chosen from
their generous collection. Be it a hunting shirt for
the weekend, a business shirt to set off a new suit
or an evening shirt for a special event anything you
wish can be produced. Precious Swiss cotton from
Alumo, the Thomas Mason or David and John
Anderson collections are the most luxurious shirt
fabrics available in the world. Venturini also has an
enormous cloth selection of their own from
Europe’s finest shirting producers.
For every new client a toile shirt will be prepared
and fitted. Simon will then modify the paper pattern
and return it to Mr. Venturini’s production facility
just outside Vienna.
Australian pearl buttons thick or thin, monograms
by machine or hand stitched, firmer or softer
collars, the options are infinite.